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Palm Trees >>Palm Tree Help >>Palms Trees In The Landscape >>Page2  >>Page3 (Continued)

Palms Trees In The Landscape, (Continued Page 3)  

Pruning
Some genera of palms such as Archonotophoenix and Euterpe are "self-pruning", meaning the old dead leaf with it’s leafbase fall off without your cutting them. Other genera such as Washingtonia and Syagrus require manual pruning. Without such pruning they will develop a "skirt" of old leaves around the trunk. Such leafbase skirts can present a fire hazard, are sometimes unsightly, and are home for many species of rodents. In many cases pruning is more for the aesthetic wishes of the grower than for the health of the plant. With most species which do require pruning, the skirt of old leaves will eventually drop to the ground on their own. A general rule is that leaves should only be removed when they are dying or becoming unsightly. When pruning, leaf petioles should be cut as close to the trunk as possible. Premature surgical removal of green leafbases can lead to trunk scars and a portal of infection. Old flower stalks can also be removed. Do not overprune as this can stress the plant. For tall plants, a pole saw with aluminum extensions can allow one to prune much higher than you think.

When pruning, only use clean cutting equipment. Disinfect equipment between trees. Equipment can be treated with scrubbing and then a ten minute soak in a 2 to 5 percent bleach solution. Chainsaws are not recommended on some species of palms as it is not possible to adequately clean the equipment. Not cleaning equipment can transmit infections such as Fusarium in Phoenix species.

Palm Growth and Cultural Observation
Successful growing can be casually noted by observation of the palm’s size and girth. However, more precise measures can show incremental growth. A simple method is to observe new spear growth on a daily basis. One holds the newly emerging spear next to an adjacent and mature leaf petiole. Together these are marked with a pen. Daily observation will show these two marks to be diverging, representing emergence of the near spear. This can be an inch a day or more on the newly emergent leaf. It has been reported that growth is more rapid at night. One can also measure the number of leaves thrown during a growing season. This is species specific, but a well grown species may have six or more emergent leaves in one year. When a palm changes it’s growth pattern and has multiple new leaf spears "hanging up" at the same time, a cultural deficiency or other problem may exist. This can be seen in a recently dug specimen. It represents shock and the plants inability to muster energy to open the leaf. One can also observe the distances between the leaf scars on the trunk. During times of cultural deprivation, these rings are crowded together and the trunk may taper in. During optimal growth there is a striking distance between them, often more than 30 cm with Archonotophoenix. 

Leaf inspection can also give information on culture. One can observe the length of the newly formed leaves. A shortened or malformed leaf (in the absence of obvious pests or changes of sun exposure) may represent a nutritional deficiency. A generalized yellowish and eventually whitish appearance of new and old leaves may represent a nitrogen or iron deficiency. A parched appearance on only the sun exposed areas of leaves is probably an acute sun burn. Shade loving plants that chronically get too much soon will have a bleached out yellow-green appearance and may eventually turn almost white. This chronic overexposure to sun involves leaves diffusely whereas an acute sunburn is only on the sun exposed areas of the leaf. A weak and dry newly emerging leaf can be secondary to water shortages or fertilizer burn. Waterlogged roots results in plants that are weak and anemic (pale) appearing. High salt content in the water can give brown tipping to the leaves. Sudden decline of all leaves and instability of the trunk may represent damage from a burrowing animal. 

Special Problem with Growing
There are as many special problems in growing palms as there are growers and localities. I will discuss a few of these problems. A very common and yet avoidable problem (through planning) is what to do when a sun loving palm gets shaded out by adjacent plants growing above it. I have lost Neodypsis decaryi, Trachycarpus takil and Phoenix roebellini from this problem. The only solution is to get sun to the palm by overhead pruning of other plants or transplant the palm to a sunny location. Another frequent problem is protecting a palm from cold exposure. Establishing an overhead canopy, planting near the house, and use of antitranspirant sprays all give palms some cold protection. Select warmer microclimates (i.e. higher elevation on your property or protected spots) for those species most vulnerable to cold. Other sometimes dubious methods of cold protection have included ground heating cables, temporary overhead plastic roofs, smudge pots, and warm water baths for the plant’s roots during the coldest periods.

Damage from sea water spray is another problem. The spray actually carries salinity to the plant. It has been observed in Southern California that Ravenea rivularis does very poorly within a few blocks of the ocean. Howea forsteriana, Brahea edulis, Cocos nucifera, Washingtonia robusta (not filifera) and Rhopalostylis sapida all do well in oceanfront areas. High wind areas present a unique problem. Strong winds shred pinnate leaflets and fan leaves alike. The solution is to pick species that intrinsically have stronger leaves or leaflets. Genera such as Brahea, Washingtonia, Chamaerops, and Butia do well with strong wind whereas Pritchardia, Roystonea, Licuala and Chamaedorea do poorly. Strong winds with concomitant dry conditions commonly seen in Southern California can desiccate many delicate species. Microenvironments offering more humidity can be created by mulching and keeping it moist, frequent spraying of the foliage with water, overhead misting devices on timers, and overhead canopy formation to offer shade and trap humidity. 

Death of a Palm
A palm seedling’s demise is simple to observe. The foliage will wilt away and the base of the stem is often soft or collapses with a pinch. On larger palms one has to inspect more closely. Looking at older leaves may mask the plant’s demise or problem. The earliest indicator is lack of growth by the emergent spear. It may later become soft and mushy. The ultimate test is when the new spear can be pulled out vertically from the crown. If this is seen, quickly begin a repetitive program of pouring a broad spectrum fungicide down into the crown and pray. Occasionally this will resurrect the plant.

Jungle Music Palms and Cycads
Nursery Address: 450 Oceanview Ave., Encinitas, CA 92024
Phone: 619 291 4605

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Last modified: October 09, 2007

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