Purchasing New Soil 

Purchasing the right soil is of critical importance and will be of paramount importance in your garden's success. Locate the best supplier in your area. Soil for the garden differs from potting soil (for pots) and typically will not have perlite or vermiculite. An acceptable formulae would be 20% sand, 40% rich topsoil, and 40% organic material (redwood/fir shavings, pine bark, etc.). Always check drainage before you purchase. Coarse sand increases drainage, topsoil slows drainage.  Get a mix with the largest grit sand possible.  The larger grit of sand helps promote drainage and doesn't break down at all.

Ideal soil pH for palms is about 6.0 to 6.5 or a bit higher. Alkaline water will slowly raise the pH of soil. Test kits can be purchased to check the pH of your soil. Alkaline soil can lead to certain micronutrient deficiencies. This can be treated with sulfur containing fertilizers and organic mulch or topdressings. If a soil is too acidic, this can be reversed with dolomite lime mixed directly into the soil.  Because of organic materials typically used, most soil preparers will mix dolomite into their mixes.  Inquire from your supplier as to whether they utilize dolomite.  If normally not, have them check the pH of your soil and treat accordingly.

Any prepared soil purchased for the garden, especially if used for backfill, will have to be compacted prior to planting. Freshly prepared soil mixes have air mixed into the blend. Also, the soils organic material will decompose over the years. Your garden's soil surface above the newly imported soil will actually begin to sink with time. Therefore, compact the soil heavily with professional tampers and heavy watering and allow time for the soil to settle. If deep layers of imported new soil are being used, one may wish to actually build up the garden installation level above the final desired level. It would not be unusual for a rich soil blend with a high organic content to compact 20% over a five year period.  So, calculate this into the finish line of the newly added soil. 

Removing the palm and its root ball for planting

Planting a Palm
(elsewhere at this Site there's an article just on planting of a palm tree)

When planting into native garden soil, most growers recommend amending the soil used to pack in around the root ball. Dig the hole at least twice the size of the palms container. To the removed soil mix in organic material and possibly some sand. This will encourage new root growth into the soil. An acceptable ratio would be two parts organic material, three parts native soil, and one part sand if needed (clay soils). Place your mix into the bottom of the dug hole and compact it. Then water this soil.  Put the palm still its container into the hole and check the planting height. The base of the trunk in the pot should match the garden soil level. If, when planting, the palm is on its "toes" (roots exposed), you must plant the palm deeper. If some of the root ball falls away you will make up for this lost height. If the level is acceptable, remove the palm from its container and gently set the root ball into the hole. Do not "flair the roots".  It's rarely needed and can be destructive to roots.  Add soil mix around the root ball half way up the hole, compact the soil and water. Finish filling the hole, compact again, top off the soil and water very thoroughly.

Under-watering after planting is a very common mistake.  Remember, the water you add has to go all the way down to the bottom roots.  Make sure enough water has been given to penetrate the root ball and new mix all the way to this bottom area.  It takes a surprisingly large amount of water on the first watering. It may be best to let the garden hose run slowly for 45 minutes, gradually moving it around to each side of the plant.  This "drip watering" is especially important with larger plant (boxed) where casual watering might be diverted away from a high mass root ball.  Remember, water goes through the path of least resistance. That soil mixture outside the root ball may be far less dense and divert your water away from where it's needed.  Finally, if you have planted in a windy area or the plant seems unstable, attach the trunk to a firmly embedded stake in the ground. This stake can be removed when the palm demonstrates stability on its own.

Now let's talk a bit about the plant before you put it into your hole.  Most feel that it is best with a container plant to have its potted root ball slightly moist before planting. However, if it is too wet, the root ball will fall apart. Some growers prefer to cut the container apart while the plant is actually sitting in the hole, thus limiting root ball damage.. "Teasing of the roots" (scraping the root ball with a blunt object) prior to planting is not necessary. On marginal or extremely rare species, some growers are literally planting the entire plastic container, pot and all, directly into the soil. The theory is that this gives less shock to the plant and optimizes its chance for survival. Successes have been reported utilizing this technique. With time the roots will tear apart the planted container.

Other means of increasing survival rates include the use of vitamin sprays directly onto the foliage, use of antidessicant sprays onto the foliage, and tying leaves into a bundle for weeks or months after planting. All of these techniques do have efficacy. I personally utilize and recommend the use of commercial antidessicant (antitranspirant) sprays onto the foliage. These sprays literally coat the leaves with a thin water soluble layer of polymer material that prevents moisture loss through the leaves. Also helpful would be occasional washings of the leaves with water after planting and careful checks of the soils moisture content. New garden soil may dry out quicker than anticipated and one should probably water the plant again within several days

NOTE: We have a new article totally dedicated to "How to Plant a Palm Tree" elsewhere at this website.  Do read it as it much greater detail on planting recommendations.

 

Shown here is "splaying" of the roots, which we do not recommend.

Garden with computerized sprinklers 

 



Garden with manmade creek

What To Do After You Plant

After planting, you must guarantee that your first watering was adequate. Anticipate watering again in a day or two. Spray down the leaves occasionally. New soil preparations may repel water and need frequent initial watering. In the first several months, never allow the soil to dry out completely. However, avoid overwatering as this may discourage root growth or even cause rot. Repeat antidessicant sprayings can be used. Tied up crowns should be released within one to two months. A small temporary shade structure utilizing shade cloth and stilts can be constructed above a planted palm to protect it from direct sun if no pre-acclimation was done. Immediate fertilization is not needed on newly planted palms. We recommend that you wait for six to eight weeks before applying any fertilizer. 

Watering

The purpose of watering is to get water to the palm's roots. Two factors are involved. First is the volume of water given. Most growers like heavy watering at lesser intervals. To know if you are giving an adequate volume, dig an exploratory hole and confirm the water is penetrating deeply into the soil. The other factor, watering frequency, depends on ambient temperature and humidity, drainage patterns, soil type, volume delivered and plant needs. Watering frequency is increased with higher temperatures, lower humidity, quicker drainage, looser soil types, smaller volumes of delivered water and water loving species. There is no recommended frequency for watering. You must inspect the soil. Most growers will water when the superficial soil is becoming somewhat dry to touch. Newly planted garden areas often require more water. Mulching the gardens surface will conserve water. Learn what your garden needs by frequent inspections and adjust your watering patterns accordingly.

Be aware that the number one cause of plant decline after planting is under-watering.

Water delivery techniques vary from hand watering to sophisticated computer driven sprinkler systems. Computerized systems do save time and can conserve water by eliminating the need to turn off valves. Drip systems can be utilized, especially on slopes. Broad throwing "Rainbird" type sprinklers are the least efficient and often have dry areas. Most growers utilize a system of customized sprinkler heads adjusted to their needs.

Another specific water problem is when you get water "theft" from older, larger adjacent plants or competing lawns and ground covers. These plants will actually steal available water from your new palm. This is particularly important when you plant a small palm among larger trees, especially foliage trees such as Eucalyptus. The larger trees roots will quickly fill the space adjacent to your newly planted palm. There is little you can do for this besides giving extra amounts of water and fertilizer to needed areas. For lawns and groundcovers, cut these back several feet away from your planted palms.

Mulching The Soil

Mulching is the process of adding aged organic material to the surface of the soil.  What you add is sometimes called "top dressing".  Adding an inch or two of organic mulch directly on top of the garden surface will enrich and add acidity to the soil, decrease water requirements, help with weed control and make the garden look nicer. It will also break down and gradually improve drainage. Organic material such as aged fir, redwood or pine shavings, shredded leaves, or aged "stable litter" (shavings with horse manure) work well for this. Avoid mulching with leaves from trees such as Eucalyptus that can contain toxic tannins. It is advisable to utilize shavings which have been given a nitrogen fertilizer to avoid the nitrogen loss concomitant with the breakdown of the mulch. Before mulching is a good time to apply fertilizer to the soil. Do not mulch over the crown of a small palm.  Designer mulches of all colors are now available.

Blood meal is an excellent organic fertilizer but does have a bad aroma

Chemical fertilizer showing the "N-P-K"  numbers and microelements

Do not use steer manure

This King Palm is a "self pruning" species of palm



Example of pruning trunks from a Chamaerops humilus. 

Palm garden 

Another tropical palm garden

Seating area near palm garden 



Several palms and a cycad



Licuala grandis leaf

When and How to Fertilize Your Newly Planted Palm

Correct application of fertilizer gives nutrition to the plant to optimize growth. Incorrect usage of fertilizers kills or weakens the plant. Thus, it behooves one to understand fertilizers. Familiarize yourself with preparations available and use one that provides good results in your garden. Always read and follow the manufacturers directions. Also, never fertilize upon garden soil that is dry or you may get a chemical burn. Deeply water the garden and then spread your fertilizer. Avoid throwing fertilizer into the crown of a small plant and diffusely distribute the material around the base of the palm, roughly matching the shadow on the ground from the overhead leaves. It may be best to work the fertilizer into the top few inches of the soil.

There are organic and chemical fertilizers. Organic materials such as blood meal, processed sea kelp, fish emulsion or various manure preparations are usually available. Chicken, horse and rabbit manure are usually safe to use, but one must be careful with steer manure as it can be too strong and burn plants. Never apply manure directly against the palms trunk or roots. Organic fertilizers offer some microelements not available in standard fertilizers. Blood meal is good for greening up foliage. The undesirable odor of these fertilizers can be lessened if they are placed under your layer of mulch. Application rates vary, but three times a year is usual.  Many organic gardeners feel that chemical fertilizers kill beneficial animals and insects (such as worms), so organic fertilizers have this additional benefit.

Manufactured chemical fertilizers are either quick release, slow release or somewhere in between. Quick release preparations are granules that go into solution and are available to the plant after several waterings. One gets a rather quick burst of chemical. Consequently, they carry more chance of plant burn, whereas the slow release preparations help prevent this. The latter are either 90, 180 or 360 day release. They have a polymer barrier around the fertilizer pellet to slow its release. Both types of fertilizers come as granules and are quite easy to spread in the garden. An ideal fertilizer would be one with the N:P:K ratio of 18:6:18, 15:5:10, or some similar type of ratio.  Get a fertilizer that has added microelements such as iron, magnesium and manganese. Soluble fertilizers are chemical fertilizers that immediately dissolve in water and are not typically used in garden applications except when drip system fertilization is being utilized.

Regarding amounts of fertilizer to apply, a good rule is to use less fertilizer than the plant optimally could consume. I am not talking here about starving the palm but rather avoiding excess fertilizer which can literally kill the tree. This is particularly true with quicker releasing fertilizers. I have personally seen palms with meters of trunk killed by fertilizer burn, especially when applied onto dried soil and "washed in". Fertilizer burn will quickly turn the newest leaves and leaf spear brown and necrotic. Over the next several months the spear will rot and finally pull from the crown of the plant. The old leaves continue to look fairly normal but the plant is dead. The problem can typically be traced back to inappropriate fertilizing technique or amounts. The bottom line with any fertilizer is the follow the manufacturers directions on application rates and don't overdo it.

Pruning Palm Trees

Some genera of palms such as Archonotophoenix and Euterpe are "self-pruning", meaning the old dead leaf with its leaf base fall off without your cutting them. Other genera such as Washingtonia and Syagrus require manual pruning. Without such pruning they will develop a "skirt" of old leaves around the trunk. Such leafbase skirts can present a fire hazard, are sometimes unsightly, and are home for many species of rodents. In many cases pruning is more for the aesthetic wishes of the grower than for the health of the plant. With most species which do require pruning, the skirt of old leaves will eventually drop to the ground on their own.

A general rule is that leaves should only be removed when they are dying or becoming unsightly.  One starts with the lowest leaves first.  You will become familiar with spotting the oldest leaves with experience.  Never cut off new or newly emerging leaves. When pruning, leaf petioles should be cut as close to the trunk as possible. Premature surgical removal of green leaf bases can lead to trunk scars and a portal of infection. Old flower stalks can also be removed. Do not over-prune a palm as this can stress the plant. For tall plants, a pole saw with aluminum extensions can allow one to prune much higher than you think.

When pruning, only use clean cutting equipment. Disinfect equipment between trees. Equipment can be treated with scrubbing and then a ten minute soak in a 2 to 5 percent bleach solution. Chainsaws are not recommended on some species of palms as it is not possible to adequately clean the equipment. Not cleaning equipment can transmit lethal infections such as Fusarium in Phoenix species.

Aggressively pruned Mexican Fan Palms

Palm Growth and Cultural Observation

Successful growing can be casually noted by observation of the palms size and girth. However, more precise measures can show incremental growth. A simple method is to observe new spear growth on a daily basis. One holds the newly emerging spear next to an adjacent and mature leaf petiole. Together these are marked with a pen at the same level.  Daily observation will show these two marks to be diverging, representing emergence of the near spear. This can be an inch a day or more on the newly emergent leaf but probably a quarter of an inch is average.  The imported thing is that there is movement.  A dying palm just doesn't put growth into this new spear typically.  It has been reported that growth is more rapid at night.

An old adjacent petiole is marked with a permanent market.  You then
mark the newly emerging spear to match.  See photo to show this.

In the growing season you should see some daily movement of the mark on the new spear.  It gets "higher" than the adjacent mark as shown.  On an average palm this should be 1/8 to 1/4 on an inch a day.



One can also measure the number of leaves thrown during a growing season. This is species specific, but a well grown species may have six or more emergent leaves in one year. When a palm changes its growth pattern and has multiple new leaf spears "hanging up" at the same time, a cultural deficiency or other problem may exist. This can be seen in a recently dug specimen. It represents shock and the plants inability to muster energy to open the leaf. One can also observe the distances between the leaf scars on the trunk. During times of cultural deprivation, these rings are crowded together and the trunk may taper in. During optimal growth there is a striking distance between them, often more than 30 cm with Archonotophoenix. 

Leaf inspection can also give information on culture. One can observe the length of the newly formed leaves. A shortened or malformed leaf (in the absence of obvious pests or changes of sun exposure) may represent a nutritional deficiency. A generalized yellowish and eventually whitish appearance of new and old leaves may represent a nitrogen or iron deficiency. A parched appearance on only the sun exposed areas of leaves is probably an acute sun burn. Shade loving plants that chronically get too much sun will have a bleached out yellow-green appearance and may eventually turn almost white. This chronic overexposure to sun involves leaves diffusely whereas an acute sunburn is only on the sun exposed areas of the leaf. A weak and dry newly emerging leaf can be secondary to water shortages or fertilizer burn. Waterlogged roots results in plants that are weak and anemic (pale) appearing. High salt content in the water can give brown tipping to the leaves. Sudden decline of all leaves and instability of the trunk may represent damage from a burrowing animal or Pink Rot 

CONCLUSION

There are many aspects to planning, designing and creating a successful palm garden.  But, palms are extremely easy to use in landscape. Most species are fairly pest free, many have good cold hardiness and they just need to be properly selected in terms of size, shape and cold hardiness.  If you read and understand this article, you are well on your way to having a great garden.

 
There are lots of different formulas for fertilizer

The base of a well-pruned Chamaerops 

The un-trimmed petticoats of Mexican Fan Palms


Popular "pineapple" prune to Canary Palm

























Lush tropical palm garden






Nice fan palm leaf




Healthy emerging leaf spear



Sabal mauritiformis leaf